Nancy and Peter in Sicily

Nancy Bellantoni & Peter Galipault

Recap from the last week in February

pre-dawn from the beach cottage in the sky

Pre-dawn view from the beach cottage in the sky

We told you about our visit to Vizzini and Chiarmonte Gulfi but we neglected to mention The Dreaded SS514. This is the tortuous road that we took previously when we went to Caltagirone. It's under construction for many kilometers, perhaps a half hour or more of driving time. A narrow road made narrower, with menacing spikes in the middle and concrete barriers replacing the berm on either side. Not a lot of room for error. Very harrowing and it can make a driver very tense, white-knuckled grip on the steering wheel.

A week later we're on that same road again aiming for the town of Vizzini and regretting that we didn't find another route, that would certainly take longer, and would definitely be less stressful. After about twenty minutes of this abominable excuse for a main thoroughfare, we decided to abandon the damned road and go another way. This took us by man-made Lago Dirillo and subsequently to the outskirts of a grim hilltop town known as Lacodia Eubea. Where the streets are two-way but are only wide enough for one car, oh and very twisty.

And of course once we left Vizzini, headed for Chiarmonte Gulfi, we took a wrong turn and… ended up back on The Dreaded SS514 again!

PERSPECTIVES ON POZZALO

Sunday we went for a walk on the beach. Afterwards we tried to go to Trattoria Nta Nonna but they were too busy. They were so busy that they set up extra outside tables for us and another couple that was already there. But when that couple was seated another couple came in and simply took our seats! So Sicilian! We couldn't really raise a stink so off we went. We ended up at Ri Mari e di Amuri for Pranza once again, where we were greeted warmly by Simona, she of the flaming red hair and electric blue pant suit. Ever since our first night here, Gianni has been trying to sell us on the fresh fish; bringing me to see the selection on offer. This time, however, we finally ordered a fish dish; spigola arrosta, a whole sea bass, roasted. It was delightful (but watch out for bones)!

PRANZA A MARZAMEMI

Wednesday, we drove east along the coast through Santa Maria del Focallo, checking out Tiki, an unfortunately dilapidated beach bar that will hopefully be resurrected in time for the summer season. After that there was a detour because of washed out roads, presumably from Cyclone Harry. We went through Grotelle, Granelli, and inland again through the vast farmlands of AgriBiz and viniculture, ending up in Marzamemi.

We had lunch at Calamarò Portodimare; Tuna Tartare, Spaghetti con Vongole. Soooo delicious!

WAITING FOR THE POLIZIA TO SHOW UP

While we were in Marzamemi, Enrico called and reported back from City Hall. He had gone there on our behalf to find out what we should expect for next steps to get our residency cards. He said that we should stick close to home because the local police are going to come by sometime soon (!) within the next two weeks during business hours. A spot check to make sure that we actually live where we say we're living.

So far, we're trying to stick close to home for the anticipated Polizia visit. Sometimes one of us will go out and get some provisions or do an errand and the other will stay and vice versa. Of course, they haven’t come. Any guesses as to how long we will wait?

A WALK ON THE BEACH

We walk on the beach often and we're curious about the reef that we can see from our window. It seems like it's grown since we've been here. Where once it was just a rock that kind of looked like a person in the water and now it's a whole line of rocks that runs for maybe a 100 meters or more. They tidal range is very minimal; only 10 inches or so. It's diurnal, with a higher high tide and a lower low tide. It's a mystery to us why the rocks seem to have grown over the last four weeks. Turns out they are man-made to protect the shoreline.